23. Day 19 - and so to Santiago

We woke up to the sound of rain lashing down so groaned and dragged ourselves out of bed. Fortunately by the time we had had breakfast, the rain had cleared - well sort of. So off we went with only 20k to ride, mostly downhill we thought, and expected to get to Santiago in 3 hours max. But of course we had not reckoned with the vagaries of The Camino. Our first 4k was spent crawling uphill and then the rain set in as the hills continued to roll out in front of us. We had a couple of coffee stops and chatted with many walkers who were wearing maximum rain gear. After our second coffee stop the rain got worse and when we thought we were only about 5k from Santiago we got off the bikes and joined the walkers because we had said that we would walk the last 5k on The Camino. After about 1k pushing the bike in the rain I checked the map and found we still had 9k to go! So we quickly hopped back on the bikes. When we actually were 5k out we took a loo break in a nice warm pub. Then the heavens really let loose and we didn't need much convincing to decide this was the place for lunch. The rain lifted slightly but we had no alternative than to get back on the bikes. And we rode with the walkers although they were few and far between, (probably all sensibly sheltering in the nearest Alberge), then started walking the final 2k which wound through the city centre toward the Cathedral. As we got closer we entered the old part of the city which gave us a sense of the history of this famous destination. The rain started to lift, the sun made an effort to peek through, and then we rounded the final corner into the massive square in front of St. James' Cathedral. There weren't as many folk around as we expected but those who were there and still arriving just stood looking at each other, hugging, crying and laughing. And we were no exception - it had been a five hour battle to cover 20k's in some of the worst conditions we had encountered. And we had conqured The Camino. Needless to say weren't feeling any pain or rain.
So that's it. Well not quite - we had a huge night out and an exciting day today so here's Rhon to finish what will be our last report.
As Barry has already said, we had not quite anticipated how difficult our last day would be and I had a completely different vision in my head of our final entrance into Santiago. However it did not take away from the emotional impact of our momentous achievement. Tears of joy mixed with sheer relief flowed freely.  I still can't quite take in that we have actually ridden 800 kms across Spain and arrived safely. We have heard some terrible stories of injuries along the way of people that did not make it, including one guy that fell off his bike and broke his hip. Last night we went to a very special Tapas bar that we had pre-booked as it only seats 12 people and the most magnificent meal which was predominantly local seafood dishes. We finished the meal sampling 4 different liqueurs and walked home happy little pilgrims. Today we went to collect our Compostelas and complete our passports - the photo shows the front and back of one passport.
Then we joined the throng at a special service for the pilgrims in the Cathedral and spent the afternoon wandering around bumping into lots of people that we had previously met on the Camino. Sadly we did not meet up with the Barrowman again. - I somehow suspect that he got here before us! We will miss him.         Buen Camino......xx

"The only thing that stands between you and your dream is the will to try and the belief that it is actually possible" - Joel Brown

22. Day 18 - Sambreixo to O Pedrouzo

And now we are only 20k from Santiago. We have just been down for a quick pre-dinner drink and the town is alive and buzzing. Everyone is so close to the end of a momentous journey and the emotion is palpable.
The day didn't start too well with Rhon's chain again causing problems. But she coaxed the bike 10k to where we had it 'fixed' the day before and we insisted that the chain be replaced. After that we had no problems and the ride was pretty easy covering 41k in 3 hours on the bike and 5 including the stop for the bike fix.We were able to ride the walkers trail for a while and had a nice lunch stop at a pilgrim's cafe along the way. The amazing stories continue to be told. There is a couple and their 6 year old daughter on the Camino who we have passed several times and finished up staying in the next hotel to ours so we had a chance to talk to them. The daughter pedals on the back seat of a tandem with her father. We met an older Irish couple who had flown over to join their son who started from the beginning a month ago. The mum was so pleased to be with her son again and had herself walked 19k that day.
Now just returned from dinner downtown and again the seense of achievement and expectation is everywhere. Everybody knows they are not yet there, but everybody knows that they will be.
We have ridden close to 800k in the past 18 days and are all starting to realise what we are about to achieve.

21. Day 17 - Portomarin to Sambreixo

Well, the bike saga continued for most of the morning. The bike hire company organised a taxi to take Barry and I and our bikes to be repaired yet again, in Malide. The taxi driver had obviously done the trip several times because he drove through narrow roads at a steady 80k/hr without any fear that another vehicle could be coming in the opposite direction. And he apparently had only one hand. Well we could only see one on the steering wheel.
Anyway perhaps the most interesting part of the taxi ride was that we became aware of just how much the volume of pilgrims had increased since Sarria, which you will remember is the starting point for those who walk and want to get the Compostela. Barry counted over 500 people walking as we went 20k. Astonishing.
While we were waiting for the bikes to be repaired we  went for a coffee and snack at a typical Spanish bar where the speciality of the region is whole, boiled octopus. If that didn't temp you, you could have a plate of pigs ears - yum! A beautiful young man from Pennsylvania joined us and and we started chatting as you do on the Camino. He told us that he had originally planned the trip with his girlfriend Heather who was killed last year. So now he is doing it for both of them. He said he was really enjoying it but finding it both emotionally and physically challenging. Yesterday we met a young woman from Mexico who was travelling in a van. Her husband and his friends were doing it on horseback. Moments later they came riding around the corner and made quite a sight riding down the main street on these magnificent animals. The bikes fixed, we decided the ride was not worth doing as it was through a large industrial area, so we gave ourselves permission to have the whole day off and caught another taxi to our accommodation in Sambreixo. Alisha if you are reading this - this is where your friends stayed. Our accommodation is in a magnificent rural setting, on a river about 6 kms off the Camino.  Our room is in a Palloza, a traditional Galician stone house, round in shape with curving thatched roof.  After a long, hot bath and a G & T, we are about to set off on a 6 km hike to explore a castle up on the hill before dinner.

20. Day 16 - Samos to Portomarin

Well after our big day yesterday we were looking forward to a relatively easy 35k ride and that was how it started as we covered the first 12k in just under an hour and enjoyed a coffee at a nice spot in Sarria. Then after a few more k's calamity struck when Rhon's bike gave up the ghost on a long climb. To be precise the rear derailleur, which had been giving problems for a while just stopped working. This really is the final straw in an ongoing saga with these bikes and the rental company is going to get some really nice flak from me when we get back. They have plenty already but nothing compared to what they are going to get. Anyway we were lucky enough to flag down taxi and a really nice driver took his passenger to her destination close by then came back and took Rhonda and her bike plus our bags 24k onto the hotel where we are staying. Pat, Jenny and I completed the next 24k which wasn't as easy as expected but overall we covered 36k in just under 3 hours so that wasn't too bad. So tomorrow Rhon and I will take a taxi back to Sarria (24k), get the bike fixed then take another taxi onto Sambreixo where we are staying for the night. Pat and Jenny will continue on the bikes for tomorrow's 30k leg. As of tonight we have broken the 100k hurdle and now have only 94k to go.
Well, as Barry has already said, a disappointing day for me and my bike today! The saving grace was arriving at Portamarin early enough to have a relax and then explore the town. Sarria, where we passed through earlier is the start of the Pilgrimage for many people as it the minimum (that you have to walk to get your Compestella) - So, lots of fresh faced walkers and quite crowded in Portamarin as this is the first stage for these new Pilgrims joining the Camino. We were lucky to be here in autumn as it is the only time that the reservoir is low enough to see the ruins of the old Roman village and the old Roman bridge over the river Mino with some of the remaining arches still visable. Portamarin also has a Romanesque fortress-church dating back to the 13th century. I managed to amuse myself and to even order lunch in Spanish until Barry' Jenny and Pat arrived about 4pm. Jenny has just been invaluable with her fluent Spanish and gotten us out of many a tricky situation.

19. Day 15 - Trabadelo to Samos.

So for those who have been following our travels you will know this a big day for us. It started wonderfully as our fantastic host Ellie provided us with a great bacon and egg breakfast - I fear Rhon will insist on these every morning when we get home. We were apprehensive about the weather and it was raining steadily when we ate, but lifted to an overcast but dry day as we got on the road. Today was always going to be all road - to ride the trail you would need a very good mountain bike and very very strong legs. So off we went and after half an hour had done 7k quite easily. An hour later we had managed another 7, and after another hour only 5 more. This put us at 1200mtrs having climbed almost continually from the start. Fortunately the weather was not too bad although it was drizzling hard most of the time. Then the last leg of this long climb was the final 3k to the top of O Cebreiro which took us half an hour of very slow slogging. But we got there and everyone was ecstatic. Then we had a break visiting a 9th century church which Rhon will tell you about. Back on the road again we had to get to another two peaks including Alto do Poio at 1337m which is higher than O Cebreiro. We weren't quite prepared for this but managed to pedal the whole way. I hope the photos do justice to the amazing scenery. The weather had remained kind and we were very lucky to have it in our side for a while, because then we started the descent and the rain arked up as well. However after what we had been through two days earlier, this driving rain seemed like a light shower. So after our long uphill haul we enjoyed 15k's coasting downhill to our destination in Samos. On the go 8 hours, 60k travelled - tonight we are all tired but know the worst is behind us and we have achieved an amazing result today.
Yes, we did it and we are all pretty proud of ourselves. I am afraid that I am in danger of becoming an adrenalin junkie! It was a tough but truly exciting day, despite the weather, despite the 5 long steep peaks that had to be conquered and despite my bike problems (still can't get 1:1 - which is bikespeak for the lowest gear which is needed for these tough ascents)' it was one of the memorable days we have had. An unexpected highlight was the church that Barry mentioned earlier at O Cebreiro. this is the oldest pilgrim church on the Camino. It has a Baptisimal fount which dates to the times when baptisms were done by immersion. It was surrounded by a number of other buildings including some Pallozas, traditional Galician houses which are round with thick stone walls and curving thatched roofs. Originally the people and animals all lived under the same roof. At one of the peaks today we stopped to take some photos and I left my water bottle (not a good idea on a ride like this where the only water available for long stretches is the driving rain). Anyway we were sitting in a cafe about an hour later when 2 young Spanish men rode up with my water bottle. Much fuss was made of this by everyone and the water bottle was exchanged for a kiss on each check and several photos - this is typical of the kindness shown by complete strangers on the Camino.
Quote for the day "Accept responsibility for your own life. Know that it is you who will get you where you want to go, no-one else."

PS Thank you to all of our friends and family who have emailed us comments. It brings much joy to us to have your support and encouragement. Sorry that the comment section on the blog is still not working.

18. Day 14 - Molinaseca to Trabadelo

Today got off to a great start - not. Our alarm wasn't set properly so we slept in - should have been ready at 8, woke at 8.15. Then I realised that I had lost two of our three credit/banking cards. Panic then 'oh well'. So Pat and Jenny waited patiently while we got our act together then we went for breakfast and finally got moving at 10.20. Should have been a fairly easy ride - 'pretty flat' we said. But we should have learned that The Camino is never pretty flat. However we had a pretty good first 15k then the rain started, we were on a muddy track and we had to walk a while.  But we made Cacabelos for a quick morning tea/lunch stop after a couple of hours. From then on it was a mixture of beautiful small villages, rolling hills and a couple of nasty long climbs along the way with the rain coming and going. So we covered another 41k in just over 3 hours on the bike, Had a five hour day, arriving here at Trabedelo at 3.30. There is only one other person staying at this small but amazing and memorable pension/b&b.
Tomorrow is THE BIG DAY. We have to take on O Cebriero and the weather doesn't look good. Rhon is having bike problems which we think we have fixed. But we are all determined to get over this biggest hurdle and longest day on our journey.
Barry forgot to mention that we were sitting having coffee this morning and who should come past? Yes, "the barrowman". Barry said to him as he passed on by without stopping "Ah, we beat you here" to which he replied "yes, but we haven't had the last word yet"!  I am thinking of starting an App for Lost & Found on the Camino. We have now left a trail of lost items in our wake! Some of it has lightened our load so has not been too devastating but when Barry lost his extra pair of bike shorts, I did insist on finding a bike shop and replacing them after he took me to dinner in his bathers! We did not have time to stop and explore any historical sites today but we did pass a very impressive and well preserved mediaeval Templar castle built during the Crusades. the countryside is very pretty again with many vineyards heavy with fruit waiting to be harvested. We had another fabulous Pilgrim meal tonight - homemade cauliflower soup, vegetarian lasagne and fresh fruit & yoghurt. With all the Pilgrim meals, bocadillos,  empanados, panne au chocolates, potatoes bravados, I will be the only Pilgrim to ride 800 kms and actually put on weight! Well it's lights out for me as I prepare for the biggest and most challenging day on the Camino tomorrow.

17. Day 13 - Astorga to Molinaseca

Did I say we were looking forward to conquering Cruz de Ferro? Well the short story is YES we did it. The long story is...............
After our luxurious stay at the spa hotel in Astorga we were very relaxed the next morning and although being almost ready to roll at 8am we decided we did need a solid breakfast so managed to actually get on the bikes at 10. Our first objective was 22k to Rabanal del Camino which climbs all the way up 300 mtrs. We were very pleased to do this quite easily in 2 1/2 hrs with a coffee stop along the way. We rode a lot of this on track, chatting quite happily to walkers as we passed by.
By this time the weather had started to deteriorate and the wet weather gear went on ready for the big climb. So for the next hour we climbed and climbed up another 300mtrs but this time in only 6k. The higher we went the worse the weather got. Heavy mist turned to drizzle turned to light rain turned to heavy rain with a biting wind and maybe a touch of hail. But we made it to Foncebadon ready for the last 2k push. Fortunately we managed to grab another coffee and dry out a bit in front of a hot pot-belly stove. Inevitably we had to get back on the bike and climb the last 2k to the Cruz. And we did - every metre on the bike. When we reached the top we were soaking wet and frozen - the temp was 9.4C. But we took photos of course and congratulated ourselves on the effort. All those weeks of training had paid off. We had temporarily forgotten there was another 3k climb and then a descent which we had been told was very dangerous. Which it was and so we had to hop off the bikes and walk them down 6k which took over an hour in pouring rain with the wind still howling. At Acebo we found a little shop and a beautiful couple who made us hot coffee and heated up some food. Thankfully the rain stopped, the sun sort of came out and we freewheeled the last 10k to our hotel where arrived cold, wet but satisfied. We had ridden and pushed the bikes for 47k in about 5hrs and had a 7hr day overall.
The weather looks very dicey for the next two days. Tomorrow we have 40k of fairly level riding before the hardest day of all after that tackling O Cebreiro at 1330metres. But as of now we have  208k to go.
Today was certainly a day of extremes, in both the weather and terrain and tested our endurance to the limit. However, it was also one of the most exhilarating. The climb, as Barry said was not as gruelling as we had anticipated, but then again our definition of gruelling is now quite different to 2 weeks ago. At the peak (which is the highest point on the Camino), we placed the stones that we carried with us on this huge pile of previously left stones under a huge cross.  The signifance is that you are meant to carry a stone from the beginning of your journey here and ask for safe travel for the rest of the journey to Santiago. Ironically, as we started our descent and had been going for about 2 kms I had a fall and was trapped underneath the bike and couldn't get up. The others were behind me taking photos and couldn't hear me calling for help. A passing motorist stopped and helped me up before anyone realised what had happened. I am now sitting here liberally applying Voltarin cream on my knees to reduce the swelling so that hopefully I can get back on the bike in the morning. The rest of the descent was  in the most stunning landscape I have ever ridden in. The visability had cleared and as we were so high up that the mountain range, as far as the eye could see, was below us (a bit like being in a plane). I felt extremely sorry for the walkers who looked like hunchbacks in their wet weather gear covering their backpacks. The pain was now been almost obliterated by the long, hot shower and half an hour on the bed. Then we went into the village for dinner and guess who we bumped into? Yes our good companion Vim, the Barrowman. He was genuinely pleased to see us and just to make sure you know we are not making up the story here he is with youknowwho. So he has walked the 500+k's from Roncesvalles in the same number of days that we have biked it. Astonishing. We are all hoping that we see him in Santiago at the end of this journey.